Road Scholar Trip: Montreal, Quebec Canada

My friend, Jan Butler, told me about this amazing company. She and her husband had been to Bruges, Belgium as travelers with Road Scholar (formerly known as Elderhostel) and was very pleased with their experience. Dave and I decided to look into the offerings of this company and found their website loaded with options. We subscribed and catalog after catalog of tempting trips called to us. I had never experienced a train trip so we opted for the excursion called "All Aboard the Ocean," a trip from Montreal to Halifax. It featured a short train ride from Montreal to Quebec City and an overnight ride (sleeper car) to Moncton, New Brunswick. 

We left Phoenix Sky Harbor at 6 in the morning and passed through JFK airport and on to Trudeau in Montreal, arriving after 7 PM. It seemed like chaos at Customs as several planes landed at about the same time and all passengers had to show passports and declaratory paperwork to a kiosk screening device and then a customs agent.

 We survived that, retrieved luggage and merged into more chaos at the taxi line. We had a coupon (voucher) for the ride to our hotel which I showed to the cabbie. "Coupon! What is coupon?" he asked in French accented English. I said it was a travel voucher and he reluctantly accepted it. He drove fast and not very patiently, gesturing at another cabbie who cut in front of him. 

I had been listening to a Louise Penney audiobook with Inspector Gamache as main character. It was set in Montreal and had to do with a conspiracy having to do with Montreal's infrastructure. I took some photos from the cab where cracks in bridges could be plainly seen. Yikes!

The main highway to downtown was limited to one lane in places with no evidence of construction activity. It was after quitting time and Sunday as well, so we weren't concerned, but I did wonder. 

We were tired travelers as we checked into the Hyatt Regency. The lobby was oddly located on the sixth floor. Looking out our hotel window we could see many beautiful skyscrapers and construction cranes. Dinner in the hotel was accompanied by a large glass of wine. 

The Hyatt is located in an area of performing arts with a vibrant street scene in the adjacent street. 

The hotel is joined to the Place Desjardins, the Underground City of shopping and restaurants. The subway can be accessed from this underground venue which is very popular, especially in wintertime. 

This photo was taken through glass and shows a neat "sculpture" of umbrellas positioned in a spiral above a fountain. 

The Hyatt is to the right in this picture. The window I took the above photo through is three stories up. 

Tired out, Dave and I head to bed. Tomorrow is the first day of our Road Scholar experience. 

Montreal, Monday, August 1st

Our day began with Starbucks coffee across the street from the Hyatt and a walk, enjoying the cooler air of Montreal which happened to be in the midst of a heat wave. A food tour of Old Montreal was scheduled for late morning. We enjoyed the sculpture along the street near the Hyatt as we walked to the tour venue. 

     

The tour was billed as The Old Montreal Food Tasting and Cultural Walking Tour. We met our fellow foodies at Brit and Chips on McGill street 

Two large pieces of breaded and fried white fish with fries and tarter sauce seemed sufficient for lunch but we were to walk a bit and there were six more food venues coming up. 

Our guide is explaining that Montreal used to be a walled city. A wall once stood where these metal structures now stand. Walking and eating and enjoying the day with two gals from Denver, a couple from British Colombia, three girlfriends from Ontario, we noshed on Portugese soup at Cantinho De Lisboa, a "healthy"BLT at Crew Labs Collective and Cafe in a historic bank, carrot cake at Cookie Stefanie, ice cream at a high end convenience store called Le Petit Dep, artisanal beer at Sours Grises, and soup and pudding near the wharf called Soupe Soup. We were stuffed!

Montreal has interesting street art.

Montreal will be celebrating 375 years since its founding in 2017. Efforts are being made to get the city ready but I see construction sites with no activity on any of the three days we are in the city. 

The RS meeting began with information packet pick-up and dinner, then a general meet and greet. We were given a general overview of the tour by group leader, Doug Arrand. Listening devices with earpieces were distributed and we got to meet the rest of the 36 folks we would be touring with. Dave and I were in the general age group of most of the others. Only a few were not retired. A few were fairly elderly and only a few of us had never been on a Road Scholar trip. Each got to introduce ourselves with a few words that might interest others. Six of us were from Surprise AZ, the other four from Sun City Grand. The host couple were Canadian and the rest of us from the USA. 

Montreal, Tuesday, August 2nd. 

Breakfast at the hotel was a bit chaotic with two large groups of tourists attempting to fill plates at the same time. This morning an introduction to French Canada lecture and a walking tour of Old Montreal began our Road Scholar experience. The lecturer was prepared and interesting. He could have gone on much longer but walking tour guides were waiting. 

We put on our Quiet Vox pendants, affixed the ear pieces, divided into two groups and away we went. 

Here is Dave in front of the hotel complex as the tour began. 

Ably guided by a well informed lady of Germanic extraction, our destination was Place d'Armes, Notre Dame Basilica and Place Jacques Cartier. 

Place d'Armes is a square surrounded by imposing stone structures made of native grey limestone. These buildings housed banks, trusts and insurance companies. The statue in the square is of Maisonnueve, a founder of Montreal. He is situated to look on the Basilica. 

Other statues are prominent on one side of the square but on opposite corners. The statues are of a woman with a prominent nose turned up and looking away from the statue of a man also with prominent nose turned up and away from her. They are comical but tell a tale of the feelings between the French and the English in Montreal. 

The french woman snubbing the English banks holding a poodle who is eyeing the bulldog in the arms of the man. 

The English man on the opposite corner snubbing the French Basilica. His bulldog eyeing the poodle. 

The artist's explanation of his work. 

The odd building on the square was made of red Scottish stone. Much more expensive to import. 

The Notre Dame Basilica. Plain on the outside without carvings of the saints, etc., which dominate other church facades. But splendidly Gothic inside. 

Very few of the oldest buildings survive. Those that do are made of rough stone. 

    An older building made of rough stone. 

Next to the Basilica is a garden that is on the site of a hospital built by nuns and warehouses that belonged to this order of nuns that are now pricey condominiums. 

On through the old section of Montreal with cobblestone streets, restaurants and shops. We are headed for Place Jaques Cartier and lunch at resturant Modavie. 

Another humorous sculpture named The Gossips. 

A street of restaurants and shops. 

Place Jacques Cartier with a statue of Admiral Lord Nelson which is shrouded now as it is being refurbished for the 375th anniversary. 

The entire group met for lunch. We sat at rustic tables and had a choice of a chicken or fish or vegetarian dish. Soup was a creamy vegetable with sliced baguettes accompanying. Water was served. Tea, coffee and a dessert are last. We could purchase wine or other beverages on our own. 

We walked to the Pointe-a-Calliere Museum for an afternoon field trip. 

This is an archeology and history museum that spans Montreal's history from the 17th century to the present. It is located on the Old Port between the St. Laurence River and the St. Pierre River which has been covered over. Various buildings have been located on this site as well as a cemetery so a dig during renovations to stabilize the foundation has uncovered some amazing things. 

Back to the hotel and a bit of rest. This evening we dine at Essence, a few blocks away. 

A cool beverage while waiting for the rest of the group to arrive. Another delicious meal served efficiently with entree choices, soup, bread and dessert. Oh my, I ate it all!

Back to the hotel and packing up. Our bags have to be outside our doors at 7 in the morning so the porters can't get them to the station on time. 

2016 Summer Camping Odyssey: Part II

Dave and I said goodbye to Laramie and pointed the Toyota north through the Shirley Basin. Wouldn't you know it, the only Rest Area on this long stretch of road was closed but we made it to Starbucks in Casper without incident. North out of Casper onto I-25 to Buffalo WY is another long stretch of highway. Soon the beautiful snow capped Big Horn Mountains came into view and grew larger on the left as we approached our destination; the Johnson County Fairgrounds. We were the first of our "group camp" to arrive so we tucked Bambi Luci into the back corner and got set up. 

    Dave gets in a little fiddle practice. Nice hat!

Within the hour come our Montana friends, Jamie, Janet, Suzanne and Molly McGehee (plus Maggie the black Lab) and their stunning vintage Silver Streak followed shortly by Jill Flikkema and her vintage camper. 

   Dave and the Silver Streak

   Janet, Jill and Sherri keeping cool under Jill's canopy. 

Jill waits her turn as Katelyn paints Suzanne's fingernails. 

Sherri and Janet smile for the camera. Big Horn Mountain foothills in background. 

Eventually our trailer camp expanded with Jeannie Buckley ( two Corgi's) and her trailer, Lon and Joann Mitchell pulling Jo-Bawb's Barbecue fifth wheel, Sherri and Warrie Means (and special mutt Taz) with a fifth wheel, newlyweds Reid and Kayla Buckley, Taylor and Kelly Buckley and toddler Maggie and baby, Kayla Buckley's parents in a big motor home, Katelyn and Tony Swanson and a tent, and Fred Buckley squiring his mom, Betty, and Warrie's mom, Elsie. Doug Ezell was last to arrive in his VW camping bus. He brought the pie.  He and Fred and Tom Wilhelm took turns doing announcing on the two stages during the Big Horn Bluegrass Festival, the reason we were here. 

   A view of part of our compound. 

Warrie set up a big jam tent, we came and went as we pleased taking in the festival offerings as we desired. Lon cooked wonderful barbecued meats on Friday and Saturday nights with everyone pitching in for the pot luck style meals. Special mealtime  guests included entertainers from the Jeff Scroggins band and the Helen Highwater band. 

Lots of picking and grinning happened day and night. The Buckley family band entertained us as they practiced for the band competition. Dave shared his new tunes including the "Pie Song". We needed more pie so I cooked a cherry pie in my little Bambi oven. It turned out great! 

The Jeff Scroggins band from my vantage point in the audience. 

Lon Mitchell (Master Barbecue Chef) cooked up cheesy grits with spicy sausage for Sunday brunch. Then after a bit more festival, folks started leaving. By Monday morning, we were almost alone in the campground. We spent Monday night in a Buffalo RV park so we could do laundry and use their full hookups and showers. We did have a nice visit with our AZ friends Fran and Bob Denoncourt.  They were in Buffalo for Longmire Days as fans of that TV series. The author is from Buffalo and the city celebrates with a huge gathering almost overwhelming the small downtown. Bob reported standing in line for three hours to get celebrity autographs. 

                 Bob Denoncourt, Dave and I at the Buffalo WY festival. 

Turning back south on I-25, we stopped for lunch in Casper with Al Kalbfleisch. It was good to catch up on the news of his Salsagrass band and hear how his wife Mary is doing in the nursing home. 

Back on the road south and east at Orin Junction, we headed to Nebraska and the campground at Fort Robinson State Park near Crawford NE. We met sister Sandy who camped with us for a couple of nights. 

 Nebraska state line sign through the truck window. 

Fort Robinson has a long history as a cavalry base and canine training station plus being a POW camp in WWII. It was decommissioned and became a Nebraska state meat research station and finally a state park. Many fine buildings remain and others were rebuilt to augment the historical experience of visitors. 

       Sandy and I at the playhouse for the Fort's production of "Spamalot." 

    The view from a bluff above Fort Robinson.

    A panoramic view from the bluff. 

   The Fort employs farriers to keep the horses used for trail rides shod. Mules are used to pull the stagecoach. 

Soldier Creek flows through the campground. 

   There were lots of this kind of dragonfly along the creek on this day. 

   Morning and afternoon the Fort's bison herd crosses the scenic loop road.

After a lovely few days visiting, we told Sandy goodbye, hoping she can visit us this winter in Surprise. 

Continuing south and east, our destination was Colby KS. The wheat harvest was in full swing and we meet several combine crews headed north as we drive south through wheat country in Nebraska and Kansas. 

The Colby County fairgrounds was our location for the weekend. It is the venue for Picking on the Plains, a bluegrass festival that this year features Doyle Lawson and Quicksilver, Monroe Tradition and Rhonda Vincent and the Rage bands. A great lineup. We camped with banjo and mandolin player, Mike Metzger, an old friend from the band Turtle Creek. 

Dave and Mike played some tunes in front of his Scamp trailer. We were thankful for 30amp electrical service so the AC would work during these hot dusty days in Kansas. 

     Doyle Lawson and his band feature wonderful vocal harmony singing. 

 We had front row seats inside the barn on a rainy Friday evening. 

   Monroe Crossing band commented that "someone turned on the big fans." It sure was windy on Saturday and again Sunday. 

   Rhonda brought her big bus and her great band. She sang all her great songs, performing Saturday night and Sunday. 

  Under the big tent, Rhonda sang gospel songs Sunday morning. 

Underway and again headed south and west into Colorado. Near LaJunta we detoured to see Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site. It is a meticulously restored reproduction of the trading fort established by the Bent brothers who traded with the Native Americans for buffalo, beaver, coyote, mink hides. They also replenished wagon trains in the old west before the great western migration really began. 

A hot day on the eastern Colorado plains. 

The interior of Bent's Old Fort. A docent in period dress gave a guided tour showing us trade goods, living and dining quarters of the inhabitants, blacksmith and woodworking shops, kitchen, storehouses, water well, and other areas. The structure in the middle of the photo is a buffalo hide press. The hides were compressed and bundled for easier transport by wagon to a port on the Missouri River and then to Europe or the east coast. We were glad we stopped!

Back on the road and finally the Interstate at Trinidad. Over the Raton Pass and west at Cimarron toward our camp for the next three nights at Cimarron State Park. 

The view from our front porch. Mostly RV's here with closely spaced sites and some noisy generators. There was trout fishing in the rapidly running creek nearby. Our neighboring camper had been here fishing for two weeks. He had been coming to this campground for 30 years having camped here as a child with his grandfather. It was an odd state park stretched out along the creek in three camping loops. Our loop was all paved, no grass except along the perimeter. I did see a western tanager and lots of hummingbirds; broad-tailed, rufous and Anna's. 

The last leg of our five week trip started with a stay in a very nice KOA camp in Bernalillo NM. We enjoyed the clean showers and went out to eat at our favorite restaurant, the Range Cafe, which features New Mexican cuisine in a quirky atmosphere. 

The Range Cafe street view. 

Dave and a tasty NM stew. Note the papier-mâché bus sculpture in the background.

Blue corn chicken enchilada. Yum!

   Toy ranges on display. There are other Range Cafe locations in Albuquerque but this is the original. 

High temperatures make the A/C a blessing. Rested and refreshed we are once again on the road to our final festival, a bluegrass gospel Campout southwest of Winslow AZ above the Mogollon Rim, in the cool pines. 

             Back in Arizona!

Our camping neighbors are Rick and Leslie Rhodes in their newly restored 80's trailer. They brought their small dogs, Banjo and Mandolin along. Note the doggy corral complete with puppy playpen. 

We met many folks new to us and enjoyed some good gospel groups. 

Mary and Bob Thiesen along with Rick and Leslie Rhodes are Fireside band. 

Nehemiah band. Dave, Terry Hutson and James Tarrance are visible here. 

Leslie Rhodes plays the bass for Nehemiah. 

Leslie, Rick Rhodes on banjo and Dave on fiddle. 

There was good jamming, a big campfire and a tasty potluck Saturday evening. A rain squall cooled us off, settled the dust, and enhanced the piney woods smell. Good sleeping weather. 

Sunday morning we broke camp. Here we are helping Rick stuff the canopy fabric back into its package. It took all three of us. 

Nehemiah band played for a church service in a small church just down the road. The friendly congregation treated us to a potluck dinner on the grounds after the service. 

Over the Rim and into the low country. Tall pines gave way to shorter piñon pines, then desert scrub, aloes, cactus and finally saguaro. We got onto I-15 then west to the 303 loop north of Phoenix and finally Bell Road and Sun Village. Luci was parked in front of our house and as quickly as possible we pulled everything out that needed to come out. We dealt with the rest in the morning when it was cooler. The thermometer says 106. Welcome home!