Road Scholar Trip: Moncton New Brunswick, Canada

Aboard the "Ocean" train to Moncton, New Brunswick, Saturday, August 6th

Dave and I were awake at 5:45 AM after sketchy sleep. As soon as Dave exited his upper bunk, the ladder came down giving us a little more maneuverability in our cabin.  Some time in the night an 

altercation happened and the train was stopped, the police were called and the result was a man in custody and our train was two hours late.

We took showers in the tiny bathroom/shower and felt refreshed. 

The dining car is several cars forward. We found out that if someone is in the hallway coming toward you, it is best to wait in between cars for them to pass. The hallway is one person wide. Navigating on a train is somewhat like walking the aisle on an airplane, a bit iffy for balance so better to be safe by waiting. 

Good coffee and a good breakfast of Western Omelet, toast, hash browns bacon and fruit. 

Our room is unmade so we went to the observation car, last car of the train, another good hike. The car immediately before the observation car is full of kids all heading to summer camp. They get off at a siding and pile into school buses, late for first day of camp. 

I watched the verdant scenery of forest and fields. Ferns, evergreens, shrubs, fireweed, milkweed, goldenrod, streams with clear rushing water, hemlock, birch, larches, cormorants, great blue heron, gulls, blackbirds, starlings and crows pass as I watch. In swampy areas are beaver ponds and muskrat dens. Dave, back in our room, tries to rest. Lunch is at 1:30 PM. We got to Moncton at 4PM. We retrieved our luggage and got it to the bus and eventually the hotel. 

Not a very good photo of the hotel in Moncton.  

Because of the delay in the night, Doug (tour leader) had been on the phone rearranging our activities for this evening and tomorrow. As a group, we walked downtown to an Irish pub for dinner and had the rest of the evening free. It rained lightly this evening but the weather on this trip has been lovely so far. 

Moncton NB, Sunday August 7th

Breakfast at the hotel. The Rodd Moncton Hotel is located on the Petit Codiac River where the tidal bore arrives with high tide twice daily. A boardwalk and viewing park is situated for viewing this phenomenon. You can see it on You Tube by searching for the "tidal bore at Moncton". We didn't get to see it since we were away from the area in the daytime when high tide happened. The river is the color of milk chocolate with sediment that is continually stirred by the tide action. 

The river banks are pure mud, no vegetation. It is a curious sight. 

On the bus at nine and off to Hopewell Rocks on the Bay of Fundy and a presentation in Park Interpretation Center and a tidal walk. 

Our guide met us at the interpretive center and took us down onto the floor of this bay where high tide can reach fifty feet above our heads. He led us out onto the bay showing us rock formations and telling us about the bay as it looks in all seasons, the birds and animals it sustains. As many as 5,000 people visit this site every day in summer. There were people everywhere. Some tried walking out to the water line and soon found themselves knee deep in mud. Our guide didn't advise trying it. 

Can you see the peregrine falcon in the upper middle if this photo? Our guide says that this bird and its mate successfully raised two hatchlings this year. I saw hummingbirds at the top of the three tiered stairway at the end of the tour. 

Lunch was at the Broadleaf Guest Ranch which is a working ranch but also has camping sites and cabins. A full brunch buffet was served by the women of this family. The food was comfort foods and regional specialties such as fiddlehead fern greens. There was pie. We were happy. 

Back to Moncton and some free time until the trip to Shediac Bay and a Lobster Cruise with Crosiers Shediac Bay Cruises, Pointe-Du-Chene Wharf. 

The cruise started around seven on a lovely summer evening. We had a little time to explore the wharf before our lobster boat was ready. Most of us shopped in the touristy shops along the wharf and took pictures of this pretty area. 

                      Shops and restaurants along the wharf. 

The lobster season is about to start so boats are piled high with lobster traps awaiting the big day. 

Waiting for our lobster boat to dock. 

Finally we board and met the crew, the Captain and two mates, learned the rules, and we were at sea.

Life preservers on the ceiling. 

Beverages at hand, we enjoyed the fresh air on the bay. 

The Captain chose this crew of passengers to help bring up the lobster haul. 

Cindy get to touch the lobster, one of two in the trap. 

Dave had his turn. There was hand sanitizer to wash with before eating. A good thing. 

The Captain humorously explained about lobster fishing, lobster anatomy, lobster cooking (complete with recipe card) and then how to dismember and eat a cooked lobster. He made it look easy. 

Each one of us got a cooked lobster to eat, potato salad, a roll and a maple cookie. 

I didn't get a picture of the grisly scene since my hands were covered in lobster but we all managed to eat our fill and our plates were a mass of shell leavings. It was a mess but a tasty one. 

The Captain insisted that the traditional way of eating lobster was serving it cold and on its back to retain its juices, not hot from the pot. Some of us missed the melted butter though. 

There was a beautiful sunset on the bay and watching lights on the shore was a joy.

We have to have our bags packed and at the door by seven in the morning. Another busy day ahead. 

Sunday August 8th, Joggins Fossil Cliffs, FORCE center, Fundy Geological Museum

We were on the bus at eight in the morning heading along the Petit Codiac River and across the neck of the peninsula into Nova Scotia to the Joggins Cliffs a UNESCO designated important site. 

An archeologist gave an overview of the formation of Pangea and eventual separation of the continents and how these fossil beds were formed. Now the tides rise and uncover fossils, breaking rocks from the cliff face. 

Above the bay as we prepare to descend to the fossils. 

   Fossils of cycad trees. 

There are fossilized tracks of a very large insect? Rather like a centipede on this rock. 

The imprint of a cycad like tree. 

We had time to turn over rocks and find fossils and to study the sediment end rock cliff before getting back on the bus and going to the FORCE. 

Fundy Ocean Research Center for Energy located near Parrsboro, NS. They are testing renewable energy technology called an " in stream" tidal turbine similar to a wind turbine under the water.  This site in the Minas Passage, Bay of Fundy is where the highest tides in the world are recorded. Companies bid to test their devices and one is tested at a time for the safety of human and marine life. Much other research is happening alongside the turbine. Sensors detect effects on all marine life in the bay. Other monitoring is done for possible effects to the bay and its seabirds, marine noise, water quality, etc. 

This is what the area looks like. You can see land across the bay and how narrow this channel is. That is why this is a good place to test sea turbines as the tide rushes between these shores. 

              Next stop was Ottowa House "By-The-Sea" Museum. 

The central part of this house was built in the mid-1700's by Acadian builders. A ferry service ran from this shore to Grand Pre saving miles of travel for those using it.  Shipbuilding and other trading was done from here as well. The house was expanded in 1871 by Sir Charles Tupper a former premier of Nova Scotia and he gave it the name it now goes by. Further renovations were done between 1895 and 1912 by A Mr. Cowan. Ottowa house became a hotel began in 1922 and may have been instrumental in a rum-running business. Since 1981, the Parrsborough Shore Historical Society has been operating Ottowa House seasonally as a museum and hosts many events such as teas, galas, quilt shows and veranda concerts. They ladies of the society prepared and served lunch for our party of travelers and gave us a guided tour. 

Ottawa House and environs was an enchanting and refreshing stop on our tour. 

Next stop Fundy Geological Museum also on the north shore of the Minas Basin. This was a interesting small museum with exhibits documenting the geology and archeology in ages after the fossils in Joggins Cliffs were deposited. I didn't take photographs inside but I did snap some pics of license plates in the parking lot. 

    Prince Edward Island plate! 

     Shadowed, Quebec plate. 

                  Nova Scotia!

                     New Brunswick! 

Back to the bus! We are going to Halifax. 

A pretty bad picture from the bus on the bridge over Halifax Harbor. Hotel Atlantica is our final stop. Dinner on the wharf at Murphy's was just OK. Maybe we were just tired from a long day. 

Road Scholar Trip Continued: Quebec City, Quebec

Wednesday, August 3rd

Breakfast at 6:30 and we are on the bus to the train station in Montreal. Wilma is missing, we realize, as Doug doles out the passes. Our driver turned the bus around the block, back to the hotel. Doug hurries off to find Wilma who meanwhile has gotten a cab and beats us to the station. We proceed to the station and are reunited. VIA Rail Canada people have us form a queue of 36. 

     Selfie at the station. Burt B. Standing behind with name tag. 

The train arrived a bit late but soon we are aboard Train 22, Car 3, Seats 8a and 8b. 

Comfortable seats, a fast and smooth ride on welded rails. The trip took around three hours. 

The train traveled alongside the St.Lawrence  River past fertile fields of corn, beans and hay. Another bus met us at Quebec City's beautiful old station. I was so in awe, staring around, I almost forgot to take a snapshot. 

    Not a very good shot from the window of the bus as our bags were being loaded. The area nearby was pretty with a park and wonderful fountain. I couldn't describe how we got there but the bus went by the Quebec City walls and a pretty garden in a roundabout (see following pics taken from the bus). Our destination was the Musee de Beaux Arts. 

Lunch was first--at the Musee de Beaux Arts Cafe. The cafe was a lovely space with tall windows overlooking the river. The meal was tasty. I had pork loin, spring veggie soup and a cream puff with berries efficiently served. And good strong coffee which I appreciated although they don't seem to make decaf coffee in Canada. Someone of our group asked for it along the way and was told it would be an extra charge. 

The art museum features artists of Québécois origin through the years. 

Dave took these shots in the modern gallery. We were given such a quick tour that I was busy just looking before we had to step along to the next gallery. The museum has grown and expanded into a  former prison, an interesting art space. 

Some prisoner cells remain, small spaces maybe three by eight feet. Austere. 

While waiting to get on our way, Dave and I had a nice visit with Surprise AZ neighbors Charlie and Mary Slivinsky who live in Sun City Grand. Mary plays golf and has played the nine hole Sun Village course. 

Back on the bus! Our lodgings, Hotel Manoir Victoria was conveniently located in the Upper Town on Côte du Palais street. We checked in and found our recently updated room to be very pleasant. 

Warm duvets seem to be all the rage but too warm for us even with the A/C cranked down. We just moved them aside and all was well. 

Dave and I took a walk before dinner at the hotel. Hilly here, reminding us of San Francisco in miniature and without the cable cars. There are lots of shops and "Restos." Tourists everywhere, and lots of activity. 

Narrow streets, flowers in planters and baskets. Beautiful. 

Returning to the hotel, time to unpack and go down to the dining room. Chef Jean-Luc Boulay has a bistro in this hotel and a resturant nearby. He may have been responsible for our meals here which were excellent. Haddock or chicken entrees this evening, leek and potato soup, chocolate mousse with raspberries. Yum. Doug gave us instructions for tomorrow's activities. Off to bed. 

Thursday, August 4th, Quebec City

Manoir Victoria had a wonderful breakfast buffet with crepes and good sausages and egg dishes so different from those we've been having. After a lecture on Quebec history we are off on a guided tour of the Upper Town. Up the hill from the hotel to City Hall square (Place de l'Hotel-de-Ville). 

     A statue and fountain in the square. 

   A restaurant on the square. Most restaurants had outdoor seating which was popular on these warm days. 

                        Neat sculpture on the corner of the square. 

Onward and upward to the Seminary du Quebec founded by Father Laval, the first bishop of New France. It has housed students since 1663. It is now a university and has moved to a larger campus in Ste-Foy. Priests continue to live here and an architecture school is in part of this space. 

      Our Lady of Quebec Basilica has burned down and was rebuilt several times. 

    An open airy space in contrast to the Basilica in Montreal. 

Our first good look at the Chateau Frontenac, now a Fairmont hotel and popular place to stay or just have coffee and look at the view. 

On to the ramparts of the walled city and we walked on the Terrasse Dufferin, a wide Boardwalk. It has a wrought iron guardrail and has a splendid view of the St. Lawrence River, the Laurentian mountains to the north and a bit of the Appalachians to the south. Under the Boardwalk are the remains of another chateau that burned down. The remains of this chateau can be seen by paying a fee and climbing down a stairway. Windows built into the boardwalk give us a hint as to what is below. 

The view from the boardwalk over the shoulders of Sun City Grand residents, Jean and Pat. 

    A view of the boardwalk Dufferin looking north. The building in the rear is a post office. Doug Arrand, our host, is the man with the name tag. 

The Chateau Frontenac has to be the most photographed building in Quebec City.  Turrets, copper roof and several additions make it the building you see today.  Many famous people have stayed here including Prince William and Kate. Franklin Roosevelt and Winston Churchill held two wartime conferences here in 1943 and 1944. We went in after the tour just to have coffee.

    The bar area of the Chateau where we had coffee. 

Our tour guide took us along the boardwalk and to the Garden of the Governors. It was a vegetable garden at one time. Influential people had their houses around this square just south of the Chateau. In this park now stands a monument to British General Montcalm and French general Wolfe. It is dedicated to remembering the 1759 battle on the Plains of Abraham which ended French rule here. 

This is a panoramic photo taken from the Governer's Park. The Wolfe/Montcalm statue is far left. A building flying the American flag is far right and houses American services. Many well preserved Victorian era houses line the south side of this park and are now inns, hotels, etc. 

We are scheduled for lunch in one of the older houses in the area, now a resturant. 

At the Aux Anciens Canadiens restaurant we had lunch at cozy wooden tables with neat cloths, pretty china plates and Laguiole silverware with bone handles. Neat carved pictures decked the walls. We dined with Margo and Michael Phillips and Audrey Sistler. An excellent meal. Meat pie with a flaky crust, shredded pickled turnips, pineapple and tomato compote with a small pickled beet, steamed broccoli and wine if desired. Maple pie for dessert. The rest of the afternoon was free and dinner on our own. 

We had coffee at the Chateau, rode the Funicular to the lower town (Basse-Ville). The narro, cobblestone streets were packed with tourists. Every old house now sports a botique or a cafe or has been made into an inn or art gallery. 

   Commissioned street art decorated this winding way. 

  Greenery and flowers do well here.

A nice square and more commissioned art reminding Québécois of their fishing heritage. 

We climbed back up to the Upper Town (Haute-Ville) by the metal stairway, L'Escalier Casse-Cou, or "Breakneck Stairs." Fifty-nine steps seem quite a bit more on a hot day. On our way back to the hotel we stopped at Place d'Armes and watched a busker do his act. These buskers are auditioned and licensed by the city. 

This guy was a hit with the kids juggling flaming things and riding a unicycle. 

Time to shower and to get dressed for dinner. Dave has made reservations at a Jean-Luc Boulay restaurant, Le Saint-Amour on rue Ste-Ursule. Fodor's Travel calls it one of the most romantic restaurants in the city. 

    Table by the window

We had an early reservation. The restaurant was full when we left. 

This meal was a feast for the eyes as well as the tummy. 

On the walk downhill to the hotel we encountered a lively street scene with people in costume for a local celebration and musicians playing for tips. This street was closed to car traffic but had pedestrian and bicycles aplenty. 

Our bags had to be packed and at the door for pick up by nine. They would be checked through to Moncton NB so we had to plan a carry on for the overnight train ride. 

Friday, August 5th Quebec City Lower Town, Montmorency Falls, Train to Moncton

Another full day ahead of us so a great breakfast was appreciated. The tour group was ready to discover the Ursuline Convent. We walked the short distance from the hotel. An Italian laywoman with money built a house and helped found this cloistered convent, now a museum. The Ursuline nuns provided education to young women of all walks of life during the 19th and 20th century. Their education of women was unusual in those days. Special instruction was given to each according to their skills and master educators were brought in to teach music, math and science. The Ursulines also produced fine lace and embroidery work especially on altar cloths, labs and frontal cloths for altars using gold and silver threads and semiprecious stones. We were unable to photograph inside the museum. 

Through this entry, the Ursuline continue their education efforts. They have a grade school for both girls and boys. 

Free until afternoon, Dave and I walked around the city, ate at an outdoor cafe and enjoyed the ambience of the upper town. 

           Small shops near a church where all sorts of art and craft work were sold. 

Back at the hotel, we claimed our carry-ons, identified our other luggage and boarded for a tour of the Lower City concentrating and contrasting the architecture of the French vs. the English here. The lower town was decimated by British shelling in the 1700's so much renovation had to be done. 

   Different roofing materials were used in different eras of renovation in these buildings here in Place Royale, one of the oldest public squares in Canada. 

This 4,665 square foot tromp-l'oeil mural depicts 400 years of Quebec's history. 

A bust of Louis XIV  in the center of this square. After the English conquest of Quebec, this area flourished with shipbuilding, logging, fishing and fur trading. 

   The Armory building near the Citadelle burned and is getting rebuilt and a new roof. 

Just outside the city is the Plains of Abraham where in 1759 the British battled the French and extinguished their dreams of an empire in North America. The plains are now a city park where many events take place in the summer and skiing and ice skating happen in winter. 

Parc Jeanne d'Arc. The statue is a tribute by the people of Quebec honoring the French heroes of the 1759 battle. The Canadian national anthem was debuted here in 1880. This sunken garden is ablaze with flowers. I walked round and admired each flower bed. 

On to the Ile d'Orleans and a quick circuit of this quiet island of farmers where much of Quebec City's fresh produce is grown. Here are some pictures of summer homes and quaint cottages with sloping roofs.

Our tour guide has the bus stop at a roadside vendor and brings us strawberries just picked and so flavorful. What a treat!

Montmorency falls cascades over a cliff into the Saint Lawrence River. It is 27 stories high. We got to the top by cable car and walked across the falls on a bridge.

Back across the bridge we are going to Manoir Montmorency for dinner. It is a recreation of a house built in 1780 as a summer home for the governor of Canada. Wonderful views can be seen from the wrap-around terrace. 

We enjoyed another tasty meal of duckling leg, red cabbage, asparagus, carrot and potato with good brown gravy accompanied by a red wine. Coffee and Brest cake with whipped cream and berries for dessert.

Back to Quebec City and the train station. Our train is scheduled for 10:49 PM. We got on the train in the rain and found our tiny cabin with bunk beds made up for the night. Dave and I did an intricate ballet getting in and out of the tiny bathroom and ready for bed. We hoped the motion of the train would lull us to sleep, but I don't think either of us slept well.